September 2010
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Plain Black Oxfords…

…are for sissies.

Whole-cut oxford in French calf with asymmetric decorative brogue. Extended heel counter for additional ankle support.

Leather insole with additional instep support, heel and metatarsal support.
Rubber midsole and crepe outsole, Cat’s paw wear surface.

Norwegian welt, spinning stitch, double stitch-down construction with outer row additional spinning stitch as well.

Dragon these heels in the Netherlands…

3-piece boot made of Hardtke French calf, black bullhide. 3/4 welt with horse butt heel rand. Spanish style tops.

Since it was a combination of boot construction styles, I went with a modified mini-Cuban heel.

Single-row stitching of Chinese dragon, scales done with mules foot impressions.

School is closed the next two days due to inbound cold weather [...]

More Brogue Than Legal…

Men’s tri-color derby:

More brogueing than the legal limit. ;D

Comics – Cordwainer-Style

BAM!

ZOTT!

POW!

(Know what that last pic is? ALL my high heel parts, fabrics, leathers etc…have finally arrived.)

It came from the last…

Today’s lastings:

Men’s tri-colored derby w/ wingtip, 3/4 brogue. Red, rose and chocolate. Mmmm chocolate…. (Camera angle makes the rear-view of the one shoe look quite bulbous, I assure you that it is not.)

Classic men’s oxford with brogued toe cap in black French calf. European size 45…about a men’s size 13 with a slight build-up.

This cordwainer [...]

Country Oxford in Blue

I refer to these as a “Country Oxford” as the material choice lends them for casual wear despite a formal cut. Blue cowhide, blue suede, brogued.

There are significant build-ups along the ball joints of this particular last… the goal was to hide the not-so streamlined foot.

I spent the day patterning shoes and boots and [...]

In today’s news…

Men’s whole cut oxford, 3 eyelets, square toe. FULL welt:

Here they are IN ACTION!

Very simple and plain cut built for a fellow classmate in exchange for some honest feedback on fit.

Now…

…get ready for this…

The SEAMLESS oxford, in chocolate water buffalo. This exercise in MADNESS was started by non other than Marcell Mrsan on the [...]

Flamin’ Yard Bird!

Burnished French calf with chocolate ostritch. 3/4 welt with a low profile concave heel (it’s not tall enough to be a Cuban… like a Baby Cuban Heel…but not…)

These will be the last slip-ons for a awhile, I have “some other stuff” that I’ll be showing later this week… O.o

Swedish Invasion

On Tuesday, the school had a visit from 3rd generation Swedish cordwainer Jan-Erik Melkersson. He brought along with him Carina Eneroth of Skomakeri Framat AB, her company makes footwear for the Swedish royal family, and they also brought along another gentleman by the name of Ronnie who declares northern Sweden as his cordwaining kingdom.

Janne’s [...]

Exotic Leather Hats! (No, Not Really)

Tops. Shoe tops! As part of exotics week (er, that’s this week (and next,likely))—which is this week where I work with exotic leather, I decided to ply the craft at a couple pair of exotic shoes:

French calf with french calf and chocolate ostrich overlays (front and back seam cover). Creme calf liner.

1 by land…2 if [...]